Jakpot!

Bronson bistro satisfies cravings for fresh flavours
Ottawa XPress

Article By: Colleen Johnson
Photo By: Ben Welland

Jak’s Kitchen opened up last year in place of Stoneface Dolly’s first location and, since the previous restaurant had built up a reputation for doing a nice weekend brunch, it seemed only natural that Jak’s should follow in their footsteps. My date and I decided to give Jak’s a try on a lazy Sunday morning – an ideal time to eat a breakfast so indulgent that it’s served well into the afternoon.

The place has certainly undergone a substantial facelift since its Stoneface Dolly’s days. A palette of buttery limes, steely greys and watery turquoise accents liven up the contemporary décor at Jak’s Kitchen. After sipping on some fresh squeezed grapefruit juice, we made our selections from the varied and appealing choices to be had on the brunch menu. The Johnny Cash tunes that the chef had brought in that day made the brief wait for our food all the more pleasurable. As one of my all-time-favourite tracks, called One Piece at a Time, played over the sound system, I wondered why I hadn’t made the short trek to this bistro earlier.

We were presented with plates that exceeded our expectations and were offered a sprinkling of fresh ground pepper from what is quite possibly the largest pepper grinder on the planet. The home fries, made up of a medley of diced new potatoes and fingerlings, were beautifully roasted and liberally seasoned with fresh chopped parsley. The pear, walnut, caramelized onion and Cambozola omelet I’d ordered was a flavour-packed treasure. Each bite oozed with gooey Cambozola, a delicately flavoured cheese with all the creamy richness of a Camembert and just a touch of the kick of a Gorgonzola blue. The buttermilk biscuit served on the side was tender, flaky and paired well with the raspberry jam left at the table.

The menu offered up an interesting selection of variations on the traditional eggs Benedict. My date settled on the Pop Eye, which included two poached eggs on a halved buttermilk biscuit with roasted red peppers, baby spinach and Diablo sauce. The dish smacked of freshness brought out by a subtle hit of lemon. It came with a side of baby field greens, lightly dressed with balsamic vinaigrette, and more of those wonderful roasted potatoes. It was certainly the best eggs Benedict I’ve had in a good long time.

The waitress was not one to skimp on the coffee refills. At no time during my entire leisurely meal did I even see the bottom of my mug. No sooner did I wonder about the dinner fare than our server thoughtfully offered us a menu to peruse. I’m happy to report that all of the tasty-sounding mains on the dinner menu give you the option of enjoying them as part of a table d’hôte, and all for about $30.

Save for its traffic-laden Bronson location, this restaurant has got everything going for it – great service, modern décor, flavourful dishes and reasonable prices. What more could a foodie ask for?

Jak’s Kitchen
479 Bronson Ave.
(613) 230-2088
Brunch: $6-$10
Lunch: $6-$10